Day 8: Chairs You Can Sit In for a Whole Dinner

How do you choose dining chairs that are comfortable for two hours, not just two minutes? Day 8 of the room challenge starts Week 2 with the piece you’ll feel most: the chairs. Seat height, width, depth and arms, measured the way I do for clients.

Jill Seidner's Dining Chair Fit Guide: a round pedestal table and an upholstered chair showing a 10 to 12 inch table-to-seat gap, a 17 to 19 inch seat height and a 16 to 20 inch seat depth, with mix and match chair ideas.
Day 8: my Dining Chair Fit Guide, with every measurement I check.

YOUR DESIGN GUIDE | ROOM CHALLENGE | DAY 8

Welcome to Day 8.

Week 2 starts today, and we start with the piece you’ll feel most: the chairs.

A dining chair can look perfect in a photo and still be miserable by dessert. Too low, too shallow, arms that bump the table. When guests linger at your table, it’s almost always because the chairs are comfortable.

So today we choose chairs the way I do for clients, with a tape measure first and the look second.

New to the challenge? Catch up on Day 5: Do the Table Math and Day 7: Keep, Move, Sell or Donate first.

Step 1: Measure your table first

Before you look at a single dining chair, measure two things on your table (or the table you’re planning):

  • The height from the floor to the underside of the tabletop.
  • The height of the apron, the band of wood under the top, if your table has one.

Write both numbers down. Every chair decision comes back to them.

Here’s the measurement that matters most, and it isn’t the seat height on the tag.

In this guide, you’ll get

  • The Dining Chair Fit Guide with every measurement
  • The 10 to 12 inch rule for the gap between seat and table
  • How to check whether armchairs will slide under your table
  • Chair widths and spacing, so everyone has room
  • My rules for mixing chairs so they look planned, not random

The rest of Day 8 is for paid members. Read the full post on Substack.


From my shop

Want the layouts, dimensions and lighting for every room in your home, dining space included? It’s all in my 151-page Complete Home Design Guide.

Cover of The Complete Home Design Guide by Jill Seidner Interior Design.
The Complete Home Design Guide: layouts, dimensions and lighting for every room.

Want help with your own room?

If you’d love a designer’s eye on your own dining space, my $397 Complete Room Design gives you a furniture plan, furnishing selections, a paint palette and a resource list for one room.

The $397 Complete Room Design by Jill Seidner Interior Design: a furniture plan, furnishing selections, a paint palette and a resource list for one room.
The $397 Complete Room Design for one room.

Dining chair FAQ

What should I measure before buying dining chairs?
Measure your table first: the height from the floor to the underside of the tabletop, and the height of the apron if your table has one. Every chair decision comes back to those two numbers.

How much space should there be between the seat and the table?
My Dining Chair Fit Guide uses a 10 to 12 inch gap between the top of the seat and the underside of the table.

What seat height and depth are comfortable for a dining chair?
The fit guide shows a seat height of 17 to 19 inches and a seat depth of 16 to 20 inches.

What else does the full Day 8 lesson cover?
How to check whether armchairs will slide under your table, chair widths and spacing so everyone has room, and my rules for mixing chairs so they look planned, not random.


Read more on Substack: follow along with the room challenge, or subscribe for all the perks, including the full Day 8 guide.

Originally published on Your Design Guide. Read the full post on Substack: Day 8: Chairs You Can Sit In for a Whole Dinner

Day 7: Catch-Up Day: Keep, Move, Sell or Donate

Before you buy anything new, shop your own house. Day 7 of the room challenge is catch-up day, plus my Keep, Move, Sell or Donate method: the 10-second sort I use to decide what stays in a room.

Jill Seidner's guide "Keep, Move, Sell or Donate: The 10-Second Sort" for sorting every piece in your dining space.
Day 7: my Keep, Move, Sell or Donate guide, the 10-second sort.

YOUR DESIGN GUIDE | ROOM CHALLENGE | DAY 7

Welcome to Day 7.

You made it through the first week. Take a breath.

Today is for catching up. If you missed a day, this is the day to finish it. Your photos, your direction words, your job list, your measurements, your table math, your tape test. All of it builds on the last step, so it’s worth having in place before Week 2.

And if you’re all caught up, we do one of my favorite designer moves: we shop your own house first.

Step 1: Catch up on Week 1

Here’s your quick checklist. Tick off what’s done and finish what isn’t:

  • Day 1: three photos, the worksheet and your one dinner
  • Day 2: your three direction words and your north star image
  • Day 3: your job list and your two seat counts
  • Day 4: your measured sketch and one photo per wall
  • Day 5: your widest table and your table size
  • Day 6: your clearance map and the tape test

Done? Good. Now let’s look at everything that’s already in the room, and in the rest of the house.

In this guide, you’ll get

  • The Week 1 catch-up checklist
  • The keep, move, sell, donate method, with the 10-second rule
  • The three Keep questions that make every decision easy
  • What sells best and how to photograph it so it sells faster
  • The one rule for this week: nothing new until the Keep pile is placed

The rest of Day 7 is for paid members. Read the full post on Substack.


From my shop

Want the layouts, dimensions and lighting for every room in your home, dining space included? It’s all in my 151-page Complete Home Design Guide.

Cover of The Complete Home Design Guide by Jill Seidner Interior Design.
The Complete Home Design Guide: layouts, dimensions and lighting for every room.

Want help with your own room?

Not sure what to keep and where it should go? Book an online design consultation: send me photos and your questions, and I’ll give you written feedback on layout, paint colors, finishes and which pieces deserve a place in your room.

Online Design Consultation with Jill Seidner Interior Design: send photos and questions, get written feedback on layout, paint colors, finishes and shopping links.
My online design consultation.

Keep, move, sell or donate FAQ

What does it mean to shop your own house?
Before you buy anything new for a room, you look at what you already own, in that room and in the rest of the house, and decide what can stay, what can move in from another room, and what can go.

What is the keep, move, sell or donate method?
It’s a quick sort for every piece in your space. Each item goes into one of four piles: keep it here, move it to another room, sell it, or donate it. I call it the 10-second sort.

Should I buy anything new during this step?
Not yet. The one rule for this week is nothing new until the Keep pile is placed.

What else does the full Day 7 lesson cover?
The 10-second rule, the three Keep questions that make every decision easy, what sells best and how to photograph it so it sells faster.


Read more on Substack: follow along with the room challenge, or subscribe for all the perks, including the full Day 7 guide.

Originally published on Your Design Guide. Read the full post on Substack: Day 7: Catch-Up Day: Keep, Move, Sell or Donate

Day 6: Fix the Flow (Your Dining Room Clearance Map)

Does your dining room flow? Day 6 of the room challenge is about dining room clearance: where people walk, where chairs pull out and where doors swing. Here’s the clearance map that makes a dining room easy to live in.

Jill Seidner's Dining Clearance Map: a dining table with six chairs showing the 24 to 36 inch chair pull-out zone, a 36 to 48 inch walking path from the kitchen, and door swings kept clear of the chairs.
Day 6: my Dining Clearance Map, with every zone marked.

YOUR DESIGN GUIDE | ROOM CHALLENGE | DAY 6

Welcome to Day 6.

You know your measurements from Day 4, and you know what size table your room can hold from Day 5.

Today we look at the space around the table, which is where most dining rooms quietly go wrong.

You’ve been in a dining room where you had to turn sideways to get to your seat, or where the door bumped the back of a chair every time someone came in. The table was fine. The flow wasn’t. Let’s fix yours.

Step 1: Mark the chair pull-out zone

On your Day 4 sketch, draw a band about 24 to 36 inches deep around every side of the table where a chair sits. That’s the chair pull-out zone.

Nothing should live in it. Not a plant stand, not the corner of a sideboard, not a radiator cover you forgot about.

Now look at your room. Is anything sitting in that zone right now?

That’s usually the first thing to move. But the bigger fixes come next.

In this guide, you’ll get

  • The Dining Clearance Map: every zone, with the numbers
  • The walking path rule: 36 inches minimum, 42 to 48 ideal
  • The door swing check that saves your chairs (and your walls)
  • Why the kitchen-to-table path decides where you serve from
  • The painter’s tape test I use before anything gets bought
  • A printable Day 6 checklist plus a flow check worksheet to download

The rest of Day 6 is for paid members. Read the full post on Substack.


From my shop

Want the layouts, dimensions and lighting for every room in your home, dining space included? It’s all in my 151-page Complete Home Design Guide.

Cover of The Complete Home Design Guide by Jill Seidner Interior Design.
The Complete Home Design Guide: layouts, dimensions and lighting for every room.

Want help with your own room?

If you’d love a designer’s eye on your own dining space, my $397 Complete Room Design gives you a furniture plan, furnishing selections, a paint palette and a resource list for one room.

The $397 Complete Room Design by Jill Seidner Interior Design: a furniture plan, furnishing selections, a paint palette and a resource list for one room.
The $397 Complete Room Design for one room.

Dining room clearance FAQ

How much clearance do you need around a dining table?
Plan on a chair pull-out zone of about 24 to 36 inches on every side of the table where a chair sits. Nothing should live in that zone.

How wide should a walkway be in a dining room?
At least 36 inches. If people walk behind seated guests, 42 to 48 inches is the comfortable target.

What is the first thing to fix in a dining room that feels cramped?
Look at what is sitting inside the chair pull-out zone, such as a plant stand or the corner of a sideboard, and move it. It’s usually the quickest win.

What else does the full Day 6 lesson cover?
The door swing check, how the path from the kitchen decides where you serve from, the painter’s tape test I use before anything gets bought, and a printable checklist and flow worksheet.


Read more on Substack: follow along with the room challenge, or subscribe for all the perks, including the full Day 6 checklist and flow check worksheet.

Originally published on Your Design Guide. Read the full post on Substack: Day 6: Fix the Flow

Day 5: Do the Table Math for Your Room

What size dining table do you need? Day 5 of the room challenge is the table math I do for every client: one simple formula for the widest dining table your room can hold, and how many people it will really seat.

Jill Seidner's Table Math Cheat Sheet: 24 inches of table per person, 36 inches from the table edge to the wall, room width minus 72 inches for the widest table, and seating sizes for round, oval and rectangle tables.
Day 5: my Table Math Cheat Sheet. Keep it on your phone for when you shop.

YOUR DESIGN GUIDE | ROOM CHALLENGE | DAY 5

Welcome to Day 5.

Yesterday you measured in Day 4. Today those numbers start working for you.

This is the day I wish every client had done before they fell in love with a table in a showroom. A table can be beautiful and still be wrong for the room, and you only find out when you can’t pull out a chair.

So let’s do the math. It’s easier than it sounds, and it takes about ten minutes. If you haven’t written down how you use the room yet, Day 3 is the place to start.

Step 1: Find your widest dining table size

Take the width of your dining space from your Day 4 sketch and subtract 72 inches.

Room width − 72″ = the widest table that fits.

Why 72? You need at least 36 inches on each side of the table for chairs to pull out and people to get by. So a room that’s 120 inches wide can hold a table up to 48 inches wide. A room that’s 108 inches wide, up to 36.

Do the same with the length of the room. Now you have the biggest table your room can comfortably hold.

That’s the limit. But it isn’t always the right size.

In this guide, you’ll get

  • The Table Math Cheat Sheet, ready to save on your phone
  • How many people each table shape and size really seats
  • The clearance rules I use: 24, 36 and 42 to 48 inches
  • When to choose round, oval, square or rectangle
  • The pedestal trick that squeezes in one more chair
  • A printable Day 5 checklist plus a table math worksheet to download

The rest of Day 5 is for paid members. Read the full post on Substack.


From my shop

Want the layouts, dimensions and lighting for every room in your home, dining space included? It’s all in my 151-page Complete Home Design Guide.

Cover of The Complete Home Design Guide by Jill Seidner Interior Design.
The Complete Home Design Guide: layouts, dimensions and lighting for every room.

Want help with your own room?

If you’d love a designer’s eye on your own dining space, my $397 Complete Room Design gives you a furniture plan, furnishing selections, a paint palette and a resource list for one room.

The $397 Complete Room Design by Jill Seidner Interior Design: a furniture plan, furnishing selections, a paint palette and a resource list for one room.
The $397 Complete Room Design for one room.

Dining table size: FAQ

How do I know what size dining table fits my room?
Take your room width and subtract 72 inches. That number is the widest table that fits. Do the same with the length.

Why subtract 72 inches?
You need at least 36 inches on each side of the table so chairs can pull out and people can get by.

What table fits a 120-inch-wide room?
A table up to 48 inches wide. A room that is 108 inches wide fits a table up to 36 inches wide.

Is the biggest table that fits the right one?
Not always. That’s the limit, not the answer. The full Day 5 lesson covers how many people each shape really seats, my clearance rules and when to choose round, oval, square or rectangle.


Read more on Substack: follow along with the room challenge, or subscribe for all the perks, including the full Day 5 cheat sheet, checklist and worksheet.

Originally published on Your Design Guide. Read the full post on Substack: Day 5: Do the Table Math for Your Room

Day 4: Measure Before You Decide Anything

Before you pick a single piece, you measure. Day 4 of the room challenge is how to measure a dining room the way I do it for clients, once and properly, so you don’t end up with the wrong table, the wrong rug or the wrong light.

Jill Seidner's Dining Room Clearances guide: the space to leave around a dining table so chairs pull out, people can walk behind seated guests, and doors and sideboards still open.
Day 4 guide: my dining room clearance numbers. These are the spaces your measurements have to leave room for.

YOUR DESIGN GUIDE | ROOM CHALLENGE | DAY 4

Welcome to Day 4.

You’ve looked at your room, chosen your direction in Day 2 and written down how you really use the space in Day 3.

Now, before we pick a single piece, we measure.

I know. It’s the least exciting day of the month. It’s also the one that saves you the most money. Nearly every returned dining table I’ve seen was a measuring problem, not a style problem. So today we do it the way I do it for clients, once and properly.

Today’s guides: my clearance numbers (above), plus my table-size-by-seats chart, rug and light sizing, and my measuring checklist, with a printable checklist and plan sheet in the full post.

Step 1: Gather your tools to measure your dining room

You need three things:

  • A 25-foot tape measure
  • Graph paper (one square = 6 inches)
  • A pencil, not a pen

Write every number in inches, not feet and inches. It sounds fussy, but it’s how you avoid the “was that 7’4″ or 74 inches?” mistake later.

Start at the floor and measure wall to wall in both directions. Write those two numbers in big letters at the top of the page.

Those two numbers matter. But they’re not the ones that usually ruin a plan.

In this guide, you’ll get

  • My dining room clearance guide: the space chairs, walkways and doors really need
  • My table size by seats chart, so you know what your room can hold
  • My rug and light sizing guide for the space over and under the table
  • My Designer’s Checklist: the 6 measurements I take in every dining room
  • How to draw door swings and mark outlets, vents and the ceiling light box
  • A printable Day 4 checklist plus a graph-paper plan sheet to download

The rest of Day 4 is for paid members. Read the full post on Substack.


From my shop

Want the layouts, dimensions and lighting for every room in your home, dining space included? It’s all in my 151-page Complete Home Design Guide.

Cover of The Complete Home Design Guide by Jill Seidner Interior Design.
The Complete Home Design Guide: layouts, dimensions and lighting for every room.

Want help with your own room?

If you’d love a designer’s eye on your own measurements and layout, book an online design consultation and we’ll talk through your room together.

Online design consultation with Jill Seidner Interior Design.
An online design consultation for your own room.

How to measure a dining room: FAQ

What do I need to measure my dining room?
A 25-foot tape measure, graph paper (one square = 6 inches) and a pencil, not a pen.

Should I measure in feet or inches?
Inches. Write every number in inches so you never mix up 7’4″ and 74 inches later.

Where do I start?
At the floor. Measure wall to wall in both directions and write those two numbers in big letters at the top of the page.

Is the room size the only number that matters?
No. Those two numbers matter, but they’re not the ones that usually ruin a plan. The full Day 4 lesson covers clearances, table size by seats, rug and light sizing and the 6 measurements I take in every dining room.


Read more on Substack: follow along with the room challenge, or subscribe for all the perks, including the full Day 4 guides and checklist.

Originally published on Your Design Guide. Read the full post on Substack: Day 4: Measure Before You Decide Anything

Day 3: How Do You Actually Use This Room?

The room you have to plan for is the one you live in on a Tuesday, not just the one you picture on Thanksgiving. Day 3 of the room challenge is about how your dining room really gets used, because that is what a good dining room layout is built on.

Jill Seidner's dining nook board: a corner banquette, a dining table and chairs, lighting and finishes, above her own floor plan of the nook with the banquette and table sizes marked.
My dining nook board and floor plan: plan the room around how you really use it.

YOUR DESIGN GUIDE | ROOM CHALLENGE | DAY 3

Welcome to Day 3.

On Day 1 you took your photos and scored the room. Yesterday, in Day 2, you chose your three direction words.

Today we get honest about what this room really does all week. Not what it’s supposed to do. What it actually does.

I ask every client the same question before I draw a single line: “Walk me through a normal day in here.” The answers always surprise them, and they shape the whole plan.

Step 1: Track one ordinary day in your dining room

Today (or tomorrow, if today’s already half over), notice every time someone uses the dining space. Jot it down on your phone as it happens:

  • Who sat there, and for how long?
  • What were they doing: eating, homework, working on a laptop, paying bills, wrapping gifts?
  • What got left on the table afterward?

Don’t judge any of it. A table that holds the mail and the homework is telling you something useful.

By tonight you’ll have a list. That list is more valuable than any picture on Pinterest.

In this guide, you’ll get

  • The room jobs list: every job your dining space does, written in one place
  • The “lands on the table” fix: a home for the things that always pile up
  • The everyday seat count vs. the holiday seat count, and why both matter
  • The keep / add / let go list your plan is built on
  • A printable Day 3 checklist plus a job list worksheet to fill in

The rest of Day 3 is for paid members. Read the full post on Substack.


From my shop

Want the layouts, dimensions and lighting for every room in your home, dining space included? It’s all in my 151-page Complete Home Design Guide.

Cover of The Complete Home Design Guide by Jill Seidner Interior Design.
The Complete Home Design Guide: layouts, dimensions and lighting for every room.

Want help with your own room?

If you’d love a designer’s eye on how your own dining space works, book an online design consultation and we’ll talk through your room together.

Online design consultation with Jill Seidner Interior Design.
An online design consultation for your own room.

Dining room planning: FAQ

Why track how you use your dining room before planning it?
Because the plan has to fit the room you live in on a Tuesday. Before I draw a single line, I ask every client to walk me through a normal day in the room, and the answers shape the whole plan.

What should I write down?
Who sat there and for how long, what they were doing (eating, homework, a laptop, bills, wrapping gifts) and what got left on the table afterward.

What if my dining table is always covered in mail and homework?
Don’t judge it. A table that holds the mail and the homework is telling you something useful, and the full Day 3 lesson gives those things a home.

Do I plan seating for every day or for the holidays?
Both matter. Day 3 compares your everyday seat count with your holiday seat count so the room works for a Tuesday and for Thanksgiving.


Read more on Substack: follow along with the room challenge, or subscribe for all the perks, including the full Day 3 lesson and worksheet.

Originally published on Your Design Guide. Read the full post on Substack: Day 3: How Do You Actually Use This Room?